February 2019- Chinese New Year

South of the city of Sihanoukville, Cambodia, lies a pair of fabulous beaches- Otres 1 and Otres 2……..for now.

We had a bit of a challenge getting here but it was worth the trouble.  There are several routes you can take. One is to fly into Phnom Penh and get a driver for the 4+ hour trip. What we did was fly into Kuala Lumpur and then fly into Sihanoukville directly.  This should have been an easy trip but with transportation issues, delayed flights, and missed flights it took us an extra day to get there.  The Sihanoukville airport is not far from the Otres Beaches (about 24 km) and takes under an hour to travel.  Pay the extra money and take a taxi ($20 USD- set price-no meter-no negotiating).  The roads were really dusty and I can’t imagine trying to breathe in a tuk-tuk.

Both locations have a narrow beach lined with restaurants and bungalows.  The water is crystal clear, bathtub warm and shallow (about a meter deep) for quite a distance.  Of the 7 days we were there, heavy trash only washed up one day and the beaches and water stayed fairly clean.

Prices are very reasonable, with $0.50- 1.00 beers and most meals under $5 we found we could eat and drink all day (2 people) for $30.-35. USD. Cambodia is one of several countries that use US currency and you can get both USD and Cambodian Riel from ATM machines. Unfortunately, the ATMs spit out $100. bills which can be a bit tricky to spend.

Otres 1

Otres 1 was the busier of the two beaches but also had more restaurants and lodging.  The music was a little louder and the party lasted a little later in the evening.  It can be a little difficult to get a taxi though if you stay too late- after 10pm.

At Captain Mikes Beach Bar, we had some of the best cheeseburgers EVER!  And they have a big tree house.

 

It is a bit of a walk from Otres 1 to Otres 2- about 50-60 minutes.  You can hire a cab or a tuk-tuk for $5.  We walked the first two times but as the week progressed we felt too relaxed (lazy) to be bothered.

Otres 2

We stayed at Otres 2.  There are still plenty of food and lodging options here and it was a quieter beach than Otres 1.  We stayed two blocks off the beach and that was less than ideal.  There is so much construction going on (and debris) that you want to stay directly on the beach itself. Plus we stayed at a jenky hotel (Golden River Bungalows) that can be in no way recommended.

Also, most of the streets are sand so the less you have to walk around town the better.

We did find a lovely little property Anana’s Beach Bungalows that is owned by an older French couple, who know the meaning of hospitality.

We had breakfast here each day (and a few lunches and dinners) and they let us use the facilities as much as we wanted. They have 8 or 9 basic/rustic bungalows and we will definitely stay here next time.

These fish were not at all bothered that we were in the water.

Nightly sunsets

You can get crab and lobster grilled at your lounge chair….if you dare.  I didn’t.

Three Island Boat Tour

A MUST DO while at Otres Beach is the Three Island Boat Tour.  It is super easy to arrange as locals will approach you several times a day to sign you up. The cost is $15. per person and there seemed to be about a dozen people or so on each boat.  Since there were 6 of us in our group, we opted to book a private boat for $60.  This is a great option because you are less tied to a schedule and have the boat to yourself.  The only real difference is that the $15. package gets you a free lunch.  We didn’t mind paying extra for our food and it probably came out even.

Our first stop was snorkeling off a small island.  There were a lot of small fish but the coral was pretty damaged.  The boats provide equipment but it is random pieces.  We like to bring our own.

Stop 2- Paradise

Next, we went to Koh Ta Kiev Island and discovered a hidden gem- Crusoe Koh Ta Kiev- also where we plan to stay next time.

Our captain pulled up to a secluded beach and pointed left.  If you buy the group ticket you trek across the island and have your lunch on the other side.  We hiked down the beach and found Crusoe’s- a ‘campground’ with tents on bamboo platforms and bungalows set back in the trees.

We had lunch, some beers, and a swim before heading back to the boat.  And of course, it was fine white sand with clear warm water.

At our third stop, the water was a little deeper so it was a great place to just cannonball, dive and swim from the boat.

We had a great time in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. If you are looking for a place to sit on the beach and do nothing, this is it.  The downside to Sihanoukville is that there is currently a lot of construction, of large resort and casino properties. As they are finished, they are going to change the quaintness (and cost) of these beaches, probably running out all the mom and pop establishments which make this location so special.  So…. if you haven’t been, go soon.